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Category Archives: Figure Flattery

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SHAPE UP WITH SHAPEWEAR

By | Figure Flattery | 3 Comments

Madonna does it, Anne Hathaway does it and Oprah certainly does it.

From princesses to divas, heads of state to the girl next door, these days ‘mother’s little helper’ is not a pill it’s shapewear.

Shapewear has become an essential part of most contemporary woman’s wardrobe and why not when the right style ensures you have a streamlined silhouette? 

History

Girdles were the first piece of shapewear recorded in fashion history. Typically made with leather and linen, girdles were designed to support and accentuate the chest and were first worn by the Ancient Romans and Greeks.

During the Elizabethan and Victorian era, girdles made way for corsets, which were the most popular shapewear of the time. Most shapewear designs go with the fashion trends of the time, like always, shapewear is designed to complement prevailing fashion trends. As the 20th century approached, girdles became back in vogue while bras, panties, and camisoles also helped in enhancing one’s figure, and shapewear became a permanent part of women’s closets everywhere.

The fashion industry has progressed well beyond the traditional shapewear of yore. Now, you can find different levels of control and various types of coverage when it comes to shapewear. Other notable advancements are butt-lifting shapewear, multiple strap shapewear for versatility, a plethora of colors to match with your garment, and so on. Moreover, fashion and design technology has eliminated unsightly seam lines and better control panels too. Shapewear is now also made more fashion forward, and it has recently been designed to look sexier and designed to look more like lingerie.

PicMonkey Collage

Source: Image 1, Image 2

PicMonkey Collage

There’s something for every need

  • Body slimmer: These dress length body slimmers are designed to smooth and slim from the bustline to the knees. Made of comfortable, firm fabric that will not ride up. 
  • Bodysuit: This looks like a one-piece swimsuit. It has a built-in bra and tummy control all in one. Great when you want to trim the waist and control the tummy.
  • Cami Top or Cami Bra: A camisole-looking piece of shapewear that gives a seamless and toned look under knits and clingy tops. Perfect for eliminating bra bulge. Available as a cami or cami and bra.
  • Control Brief: A brief with a built-in front tummy panel. The solution when a flat tummy is desired. Very useful under straight skirts, knits, and flat-front pants. Also known as a tummy shaper.
  • Thigh Control Brief: Light to strong control brief that can firm the tummy, bottom and thighs. If large thighs are your problem, select style with light control at the leg hemline.
  • High-waisted Brief: A control brief with an extended waistband to give shaping and support to the waistline. Eliminates any line at the waist and gives a smooth shape to the sides.
  • Waist Control Bra: Similar to the high waisted Brief, this garment slims the waist but is connected to a bra. Often a better choice as it has less chance to roll when seated.
  • Footless Hose: A control brief with legs extending down the thigh. This smoothes the thigh-line and eliminates unwanted bulges and movement.

shapewear

Shapewear 101

  • Shapewear is made to enhance your existing figure. Embrace your curves, and keep in mind that shapewear is made to reveal the best version of you.
  • Keep in mind the silhouette and type of garment you will be wearing your shapewear with. Choose control briefs or panties for midi skirts, full slip shapers for that little black dress and so on. Also, remember to think about exposed straps when wearing shapewear, there are strapless options available for that.

ShapewearGuideSource

  • Don’t be tempted to buy shapewear larger or smaller than your real size, you can choose a higher level of control of your garment if you need more constriction.
  • Keep an eye out for cotton-blend options that makes shapewear more breathable and cool. 
  • Always step into shapewear, even camisoles, and pull the garment up over the hips to avoid trapping the head and arms in the shaper. Also, bunch up the shaper like pantyhose and pull it on while gradually releasing the fabric. Leave crotches hooked or snapped, as it can be difficult to get these fastened once the shaper is on. The trick is to go slowly and be patient. 
  • When fitting shapewear, bend, stretch, sit and walk around in it to ensure it fits well and doesn’t restrict your movements.
  • Buy the shapewear that suits the garment you’ll be wearing e.g., an all in one for a dress or cami top for under a light weight sweater.
  • Any shapewear that has even the slightly change of being seen should be in a color that becomes invisible with the garment. Nude works for light colored items while back is best for dark clothing. 

Notable brands

At the forefront of the shapewear revolution are two notable brands, Spanx and Nancy Ganz. Nancy Ganz revolutionized shapewear and introduced it into the Australian market in the 90s with its Hip Slip product. The Hip Slip is the modern version of the girdle and it cemented Nancy Ganz as a brand powerhouse when it comes to shapewear. Its new innovation, Nancy Ganz SLIMS, is 50% thinner than traditional shapewear. The brand also now offers swimwear with control options.

Spanx, on the other hand, is a brand and collection of shapewear created by Sara Blakely. With an almost cult following from celebs and regular women alike, Spanx has introduced the power that shapewear has to increase one’s confidence as well as one’s chicness. Spanx has a wide selection of shapewear, from jeans to undergarments to swimwear.

 

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Ann Reinten AICI CIP
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MARVELOUS MAMMARIES: How to make the most of a large bust.

By | Body Basics, Figure Flattery | 5 Comments

A large bust can be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, your girls may have some of your besties envious and there’s no denying they do turn heads, but finding the line between sartorially stylish and trashy can at times be tricky.

Regardless whether you want to hide of flaunt them, there are many ways to be busty, elegant, and fabulous, all at the same time.

Busty BeautiesTop row: Kim Kardashian, Scarlett Johansson, Kat Dennings
Bottom Row: Christina Hendricks, Sofia Vergara, Salma Hayek

Support, Fit, Define

While wearing a bra can be a pain the benefits out weight the disadvantages. A well-fitted bra will:

  • prevent peek-a-boo nipples, 
  • lift and define your bustline. Slimming and elongating your torso and presenting a more youthful appearance. 
  • inhibit excessive movement when walking fast or exercising
  • delay sagging

So before anything else invest in a few great bras, no matter what your bust size. If you are large busted, you need a bra built with extra support. It’s all too tempting to cheap-out and buy an inexpensive bra but by doing so you do yourself a great injustice.

If you’re tempted to go bra-less take a few moments to read Gabrielle’s feature:  My Week Of Living Bra-lessly in New York City

LiftSupportDefine

Strategize the Lines

If your desire is to down-play your chest size the next thing to do after purchasing a good bra is to be mindful of the style of necklines and collars you wear.

Think:

  • ⋁ rather than
    shaped necklines and collars pull attention up and outward away from the bust toward the shoulders.
    ⋀ necklines, i.e., halternecks and collars pull the eye onto the bust and create width.
    Even wearing the right bra can visually reverse the lines – see Lift, Support and Define image (above). A good bra places the emphasis on the shoulders while a sagging bust has the emphasis at the base of the breasts.  

Minimize with triangles

  • Low trumps high.
    High necklines cause a large bust to be engulfed and exaggerated.

Reveal

  • Narrow verses wide.
    The importance of this depends on your size and how you feel about your breasts and upper body. The wider a neckline or collar, the wider your chest will appear.

WideVersesNarrow

  • Angular verses curved
    Angular design lines have the power to counteract curves. Use them if you feel you’d like to play down the fullness of your breasts.
    Round necklines will emphasize your voluminousness. 

AnglesVersesCurves

  • Vertical over horizontal. 
    Another clever technique to elongate and slim your upper torso is to incorporate vertical design features or accessories.  From button-front tops, pinstripes to open jackets and accessories like oblong scarves this can be a real winner.  

 Run a Lean line

Embellish

Selecting a statement accessory is all about scale. Picking dainty jewelry or finishing off a look with a small bag can look unbalanced with your bust. Medium to large statement necklaces or details that sit above your bust line are among your best options. You can also try long line necklaces and pendants as long as they don’t bounce as your walk or fall within the cleft of your bustline. Alternatively try some dazzling chandelier earrings. Dramatic pieces will draw the eye up, and away from your bust line.

As for purse options, a major leather carryall is not only functional, it’s also the best option to minimize and balance a large bust. Bags that are narrow in depth from back to front will also not add extra width to your torso if carried under your arm. For the evening, try a trendy over-sized clutch instead of a small minaudiere.

Necklaces

Accessories are not the only embellishments worth noting. Garment embellishments such as frills, motifs and texture will add extra bulk to your chest so keep these minimal.

Get it Together

When it comes to tailored blouses, dresses, and a perfect fit, darts should be given much of the credit. When positioned right (pointing and ending near the nipple) the results can be spectacular. Darts allow for ample room while providing torso shape – always a good thing when you want to highlight a small waist.

Buttonhole position and direction likewise can have a significant impact. The perfect place for center front buttons is where one sits midway between your breasts where they are fullest. Alternatively close set rather than wide set button also work well – both allows the blouse to close without gaping. Buttons often sit above and below this point and are a major cause of unsightly blouse gap.  

Another smart technique used in higher end garments or by designers who truly care about fit is a horizontally cut buttonhole located where the garment is likely to experience most strain. For women, this can be between the breasts and at the hipline while for men it’s at the stomach. Horizontal buttonholes allow for more lateral movement and, as a result, the garment will gap and strain less    

Darts

Sleeve Logic

When it comes to enhancing or minimizing the apparent size of your bust your sleeves are the power players. Where they end creates a strong horizontal line across your body add to or deflecting attention away from your bust.

To minimize your size wear a half to full length fitted or slender sleeves.  To accentuate your size end you sleeves at the widest point of your breasts.

Sleeve Logic

Images 

Shape Up

A curvy body and/or a voluminous bust are assets to be proud of, not hidden so don’t hide your curves undergarments that swamp your body.

Semi-fitted to very fitted (depending on your weight and how much you love your girls) is the way to go. As a second option softly flowing tops and dresses will also work.

A nipped in garment from just under your bust to your waistline will create desirable curves while also cleverly concealing a large bust if that is your desire. Avoid narrow lapels in favor of medium to medium-large versions as well are streamlined, non-fussy styles and embellishments as well as jackets that button under the bust. 

clebrate your shapeAlter It

Rarely will off the rack garments fit you perfectly. A good alteration service can make a just-so garment look made for you and is worth the investment in yourself and your image – hands down.

Please Don’t

To complete my ramblings here are some final thoughts on large bust fails.

NoNos

BigBustBlundersA: Too much horizontal width across where Jill is already large. Half length sleeves also widen upper torso: 3/3 sleeves would have been better.

B: Blousing makes Christina’s breast look like they are sagging below her waist.

C: Shapeless: when you have a sultry figure don’t hide it .

D: Heavy, wide lower sleeves drag Christina’s shoulders down, narrowing then and making them appear more sloped as well as making her bustline appear lower. 

MORE?

Here are some great how-to features from bloggers who intimately know large bust issues.

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HOW TO FIND YOUR PERFECT PANTS

By | Figure Flattery, Wearing Classics | 6 Comments

Do you have a favorite pair of pants that you feel you can’t live without. A pair you know you’ll be devastated to lose when eventually they wear out? 

What makes them so special? Is it because they fit like a glove, or make your behind look like you’re J. Lo, or maybe they allow you to move freely without the fear of hearing a tear? There could be an endless laundry list of reasons as to why you love your pants, but in the end those were also the factors that influenced your purchase decision.

The reason why so many women wear their favorite pants until their practically fall apart, isn’t because of laziness, or financial frugality but because of effort it took to find a pair that looks and fits so well.  

Pants are without doubt the second most difficult garment to shop for.  What’s the first? Swimwear – but that’s a feature for another day.

It probably took you at least an hour trying on all kinds of pant styles trying to find that elusive pair that met all the standards you set for yourself.  Or did you luck-out, and don’t really know what about these pants you love so much, are so right for you? 

Knowledge is power, and when you’re armed with the knowledge of what style elements suit you best, you’re search for that perfect pair of pants is made so much easier.  

Style

The best pants are without doubt classic, tailored styles; from flat front pants to pleated trousers, a straight or tapered leg, classic tailored styles are your closet staples and everyday workhorses. In a solid, neutral color they will stay current for years and can easily transition from a windy winter day to a steamy summer night. From formal occasions to work, and onto dressy casual activities. 

Your body type, personal style and lifestyle should also play their roles in your purchasing decision.

If you have a short body and long legs you will not necessarily look good in the same style as someone who has a long body and short legs. Likewise if you have the challenge of a full tummy, flat bottom or wide thighs your style selection needs to be one that minimizes the trouble area and directs attention elsewhere.

pantsandtrouserslongerlookinglegs

Fit

Fit and style go hand-in-hand.

The most flattering trousers for women should be well-fitting at the hips and either smoothly contour over the buttocks, or fall vertically to the floor from the apex of the derriere in the case of straight or wide legged pants. Pockets should lay flat and close – they should not gape. 

When it comes to fit, make sure the waist is neither too loose or too tight. It should circle your waist without any fabric gaping out from your body, or being so tight you feel like you’re being squeezed. If you can’t easily slip two fingers sideways between the waistband and your body, try the next size up – you can always take them in at the waist.  A tight waist can cause the dreaded “muffin top” which is unsightly and will make you appear larger. 

If you’re heavy in the torso aim for pants with a slightly higher waist as these will slim everything down while also visually elongating your legs. I also suggest torso slimming camis to eliminate rolls and bra bulges.

When you are in the fitting room test how you look and feel while moving around in the pants – bend, sit, squat and take a little walk. Denim and leather can be relied on to stretch some while cotton and man made fabrics will not.

Try to shop with someone you can trust to be completely honest with you, or keep things real with yourself when deciding on a new pair of pants.

If you have a generous derriere, this might also cause fabric to bunch a bit in the back.  Try going up a size and don’t forget the crotch area; we’ve all heard horror stories of camel toe, moose hoofs, etc. Look at where the pants are pulling as the lines usually point to the source of the problem: a smiling crotch is cause by a rise that is too short to accommodate for your bottom and horizontal pulls at the thighs indicate there is not enough width in the leg.

pantfit

pantfitting

Comfort

In my book comfort reigns supreme, and is the result of wearing the right size and having any necessary alterations made. Too many women focus on the number on the tag. Style and fit are far more important, especially when you remind yourself that there is no consistent sizing anywhere, except within an individual brand. So aim for a flattering style and comfortable fit, rather than a size.  Then when you’ve found the perfect pants, if you don’t like the number on the label simply cut it off!  That way you’ll be able to focus on how the pants make you feel, rather than the fact that you had to go up or down from a certain size. 

fitandcomfort

Fabric

The list of fabrics and blends for pants could go on and on for days. If you want pants that will stretch yet hold their shape, look for less than 5% of lycra or spandex in the fabric. Sturdy, medium to thick stretch fabrics give the best appearance if your leg is not as firm as it used to be.  Flimsy or light weight stretch fabrics will only highlight every lump and bump.

Wool holds its shape, is comfortable to wear and has a quality appearance, making it perfect for a professional wardrobe. Leave leggings, linen pants and jeans for weekend wear since they tend to be on the more laid-back side of bottoms.

Pants that are lined can be relied on to give a superior appearance as they allow the outer fabric to flow past the skin, increases the comfort level and the longevity of the pants as they reduce strain on the seams.

Stretch

Rise

The rise of you pants is important to how they will ultimately look and feel. Low rise pants require a firm, flat stomach to pull off, while high waists are flattering on fuller figures, and can work wonders at concealing tummy problems. A mid-waist length sits just under your navel and tends to be universally flattering.

While in the fitting room do the squat, bend, kick dance to help you decide if your rise amply covers your behind.

pantrises

Width

Your best leg widths depends on your height, weight, and shape. Shorter women can rock wide-leg pants as long as they flare out more toward the knee or lower. If they flare out any higher they can consume a petite frame and substantially reduce your apparent height.

While a straight fit can seem a bit boyish on a less curvier frame by working some heels and a cute belt into the look you’ll soon create femininity and shape.

A ‘skinny’ fit can look great on countless body types, as long as they fit well, the fabric is sturdy and they are comfortable. Remember, bunching at the crotch or digging into your hips is always a bad sign. Adding boots either under or over the pants will add variety to the look.  Boots in the same depth or color as the pants will elongate your legs while in a different color will add interest.

Cropped pants and trousers tend to look best on tall women and generally speaking the closer the hem is to the leg the shorter the pants need to be to look good and vica-versa. How short you can go will depend on your leg length and the style of shoe you choose.

Widths

Length

Bunching or frayed hems and pants touching the ground all indicators that your pants need taking up.

Heels can solve the problem if you can find the right height. For a length that will work with both medium height heels and flats stand bare footed and have your pants hemmed at the point where they touch the ground.

Thanks to some Parisian inspiration, rolling up your pants is very chic right now; it’s an effortless and free way to control the length. Usually a relaxed fits look best when rolled up once or twice, but lately celebs like Sarah Jessica Parker have taken to one long fold on skinny jeans. This really depends on your personal style, and how much leg you want to show.

Hemming

Creativity

Color, pattern and texture are all up to personal preference. Solid colored pants in neutral tones will be the most versatile. Medium dark to dark colors are the most slimming.

Vertical stripes elongate the legs while prints look best when they are neither too large nor too bright. Printed pants have lately become a staple in any fashionista’s wardrobe! They add some fun and edge to every look.

For women worried about having thin legs, a textured pair of pants can visually help add a little weight. Satin sheen is also becoming a popular option for pants but can add extra visual weight so be sure to add heels and attract attention high on your body with your accessories.

printsandpatterns

style tips and tricks

RESTYLE IT: style tips for when your outfit isn’t working

By | Coordination, Figure Flattery, How To..., Wardrobe Savvy | One Comment

We’ve all been there; standing in front of a mirror staring at out reflection and wondering what the heck is wrong with this outfit. In frustration you either say ‘stuff it’ and carry-on with your day or go back to an outfit you know works.

When I train image consultant one of the first makeover techniques I teach is to look carefully at the person and the outfit to work out what it is exactly, that appears to be the problem. Is it the fit, the length, the color, style, coordination or something else? Only when you can recognize the problem can you fix it.

In reality all it takes to make most outfits work is a few key styling elements.

Is it the style?

Not everything is going to suit your shape. Unlike men, women can be a million unique shapes and the first rule is ‘know thyself’. It will save you money, time and frustration – knowledge is power.

Solution: Either invest in a personal image consultation or an online program such as My Private Stylist. It is only then will you gain the knowledge needed to shop quickly, effectively and with success.

Another aspect to style is ‘personality’. An outfit can suit all your physical characteristic and look fabulous to everyone else but if it is not in harmony with your personal style then it can look and feel all wrong to you.

Solution: Take the time to Personal Style Expression Quiz. When you can identify the styles are perfect for your personality your mind’s eye will be forever on high alert and you’ll notice more of styles when you are shopping.

Is it the shape?

Do you have a curvy shape? If you do, you’ll look best in garments and outfits that reveal some shape; this is most evident with dresses. Find the smallest area of your torso and highlight it. Shapes dresses can sometimes work if they are soft and flowing but will seldom be as flattering as dresses that are curvy.

Solution: if you are an hourglass, triangle or inverted-triangle body shape, look for ways you can add shape using a belt, cinched sweater or trying a knot in the dress. Alternatively, your local alteration service may be able to create shape by inserting darts or taking in the side seams.

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Is it the fit?

If a garment does not fit you, the results are always bound to disappoint. Too tight and too loose are equally problematic.  

Solution: if the item is too tight and there is sufficient seam allowance to let it out then by all means do so if you absolutely love the garment and it is one that suits your shape. Otherwise donate it to charity.  If it too loose investigate ways to give it shape (see above point) or have it altered.  

Does it reveal lumps and bumps?

The truth is, many women (me included) do not have a firm torso or thighs.  It can happen from a lack of exercise, after childbirth or the ageing process. When this occurs the lack of firmness will reveal itself through the garment, especially if they are too tight/small.  

Solution: Shapewear.  With the exception of the too small garment, shapewear will be your panacea.  Today they can be found varieties for a multitude of garments and in ultra-comfortable fabrics.  From camisoles to leggings and full body suits you can tame the bulges and wobbles in minutes.  Important: ensure you purchase the correct size for the best look and comfort.

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Photo Credit

Is it the vertical proportions?

This is the first of the secrets that stylists and image consultants know that I’m sharing today.  Vertical proportion is one of those element that if you don’t know about it you will not see it.  Outfits are most visually appealing when they are comprised of unequal lengths i.e. long over short or short over long.  Outfits comprised of equal lengths can appear unfinished or boring.  

Solution: If this is the problem study your outfit to work out how you can create uneven proportions.  It may be through the addition of another garment, accessory or changing the way you are wearing the garments i.e., wearing the top untucked instead of tucked in.

3

Is it the horizontal proportions?

This can be the issue if you feel fat in the outfit and the culprit is usually color blocking.  The more you cut your body up in horizontal blocks of color the shorter and wider you will appear.

Solution: the fewer blocks of color in your outfit the better – 2 is usually enough. Keep the darker colors to the areas you are largest. 

colorblocking

Is it the coordination?

Maybe your outfit is lacking visual appeal through a lack of appealing coordination.  This is often the cause when you feel the outfit needs ‘something’ but have no idea what.  In most cases it will be when you are wearing two solid colored items.

Solution: there is a styling rule called the Rule of Three’s where an outfit looks complete when it comprises of 3 visual elements.

This can be

  • Three garments i.e, jean, top and sweater/jacket/waistcoat etc.
  • Two garments (different colors or distinct shades of same color) and one accessory i.e., scarf, pendant necklace or belt. Note: the accessory must be on the outfit (bag, shoes, small necklaces, earrings and hats don’t count).
  • Two garments where one is patterned, has a motif, has sheen/shine or noticeably textured.
  • One garment where it has two different embellishments.

5

Is it the color?

The cutest outfit in the world which doesn’t suit your personal coloring won’t do you any favors. Successful style means wearing garments in appropriate colors for your skin tone/hair color. These colors must also contrast appropriately with one another to enhance your coloring and size.

Solution: Get a color consultation to find out your colors (Winter, Spring, Summer, Autumn; Clear & Cool, Warm & Muted, etc.)! You will also learn about contrast levels and how to make them work for you a well as lots of other fashion style tips.

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Photo credit: Jane Liddelow - Style Makeover HQ

Does it work for your age?

This has to be one of the most frequently asked questions I’ve had from clients over 40. Just because you can fit into the item does not mean you should wear it.

I’m all for looking youthful but there is a threshold. My best advice is your outfit should match your perceived age as gauged by your face, not just your body.  The main danger is revealing too much main via the hemline length and the depth of necklines, followed by bare upper arms and over fitted garments.

As we age, simplicity and elegance is a good direction to follow. This by no way means you need to lose your creativity or individuality.  You may not be able to wear all the latest fashions but you can add trend accessories, colors and influences into your wardrobe.

Solution: if you are concerned the hemline is too short or the neckline too low; you’re probably right. Sometimes it’s easy to add a top underneath but harder to add length.  One way to hide the short hemline is to add opaque hosiery; you’ll be amazed at how much this will help.

Adding a sweater, jacket or wrap is the easiest way to camouflage aged, thin or heavy upper arms. 

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Is it too much or not enough?

Focal points are areas within the outfit that attract your attention.  Placed in the wrong place and they can highlight an area you’d prefer to hide. Too many and your outfit will look too busy, too few and the outfit is bland.

A pleasing outfit has no more than 3 focal points and since they will attract attention they should be located on the parts of your body you think your best.

Solution: ensure you focal points are placed over areas of your body you’re happy for others to see.  When at work, focal points are best kept above your bustline.

To avoid too many or too few count up the focal points within your total appearance. Pull back and remove items when the number is over 5 for work and 8 for non-work outfits.  Add a few when the number is 2 or less.

Here’s the list – add 1 point or more, as directed:

  • Each color in your outfit (shades of one color, count as 1 point),
  • Colored or patterned hosiery (excluding black and neutral),
  • Shoes if a color other than a neutral. Add a point if embellished,
  • Belts if in a non neutral color, large or embellished, 
  • Boots if a color other than neutral.  Add a point for over the knee or embellished,
  • Earrings which are large or bright,    
  • Necklaces, 2 points if they are large, bright or exotic,    
  • Hats, head-wear and hair accessories,
  • Handbag (excluding neutral colors).  Add extra point if it is oversize,
  • Coloured nails if very bright +1, very long +1,
  • Contrasting buttons, trims, buttons, belt buckles. 2 points if the item is large or very bright,
  • Scarves, bows, ruffles, monograms or any other eye catching embellishment not yet mentioned,
  • Red or unusual coloured or styled hair.

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diagonal design lines

DYNAMIC DIAGONAL DESIGN LINES

By | Body Basics, Figure Flattery, Line and Design | No Comments

Of all the design lines seen in accessories and garments above all my favorite is the diagonal. At first this line can seem innocuous but look a little closer and you’ll see that it is possibly the most common and most impactful line of all.

Diagonal design lines may be single or divergent lines with each causing the eye to move from one side to the other on an angle.

  • Physically, diagonal lines can slim and lengthen when more vertical lengthen. While those that are more horizontal will shorten and widen the area they have been place over.
  • Psychological, diagonal lines can be generally described as dynamic and interesting as they are not as conventional as horizontal or vertical design features. 
    ~ As a single design lines or features: interesting, inventive and lively. 
    ~ As zig zag lines within patterns they can be seen as fun, creative or busy.
    ~ As alternating lines within patterns they can be seen as dramatic, erratic or intense.
    ~ Diagonal prints and patterns are best left for after work hours as they can be overwhelming especially when in bright colors.

  • Associations: Alternating diagonal lines are often subconsciously associated with danger as many dangerous events and animals in our natural world have diagonal shapes.

Diagonal lines and features can be found:

  • within prints and textures: such as herringbone, chevrons and argyle etc.

  • as structural components: such as triangle and inverted triangle silhouettes, panels, seams, collars, necklines, darts, flared pants and raglan sleeves etc.
  • garment detailing or embellishments: pockets, inserts, rick-rack and pleats etc.
  • accessories: scarves, bags, pendants, toes of shoes, earrings etc.

SO MANY USES

The wearing of garments with diagonal design lines or features is best achieved when they feels in-sync with your personal style expression.

Single lines

The longer and more vertical the diagonal line design features the more powerful the effect. Add color contrast to amplify the result.

A. Length is highlighted by the color contrast.

B. Diagonal line is slimming but not as much as A.

C. Only slight slims the mid torso.

D. While the line is highlighted by the color contrast the angle is more horizontal than vertical.

Divergent Lines (Triangles)

Triangles are one of the most common diagonal design lines found within garments e.g., ‘V’ necklines, collars, lapels, ‘V’ shaped button placement on a double-breasted jacket or a chain and pendant.

A triangle is formed when two or three sides are apparent (e.g., ‘V’ necklines, collars, lapels, pendants and jacket openings etc). The widest arm of the triangle is the one that commands the most attention (even if the widest arm is missing e.g., V-neckline). The brain will perceive that area as the one with the most width. Below jackets (C and D), each have a ‘V’ shaped hemline. The jacket with the widest inverted ‘V’ hemline ( A ) is the one that makes the hips appear widest. The triangular opening in jacket D is longer and narrower, lengthening and elongating the area.

Likewise the width and length of the ‘V” in V-necklines will impact the width and length of the face, neck, shoulders and bust line:

E: Balanced width and length

F: Widens shoulders

G: Lengthens face and neck and slims bust line

H: Lengthens the face and neck, plus slims the bust line even more than G

Horizontal fashion features

HORIZONTAL HELP: how horizontal design features impact appearance

By | Body Basics, Figure Flattery, Line and Design | 2 Comments

All lines are endowed with their own set of image creating powers; from changing the way you appear physically to altering the impression you make on others.  Like many things in life, what is taught in theory is not quite as black and white when applied to real life and so it is with horizontal design line features.

What are horizontal design features? They’re anything that draws the eye from one side to another across a horizontal plane.

They can be found in:

  • within garments: such as boat necklines, off the shoulder collars, bilateral pockets etc.
  • structural components: panels, pleats, seams and fabrics that stand away from the body etc.
  • garment detailing or embellishments: horizontal lace paneling and ruffles etc.
  • fabric: horizontal patterns and prints.
  • colour: horizontal blocking, outfits comprising of several different colored garments etc.
  • accessories: scarves, belts, closed/high vamp shoes, low heels and/or blunt toe shoes etc.
  • length: short garments.

 
Physical Effect: shortens and widens. Can also be used to balance the body.

Psychological Impression: stability and composure. 

Associations: sport and manual labor. 

As a Pattern: is most seen in casual clothes and therefore best worn in limited amounts at work.

THE BASICS

Most women are aware that horizontal design features such as stripes have the ability to make them appear wider, and as a result are best avoided. But that’s not necessarily correct as you will see.  When employed in the right way they can be incredibly effective in creating the perfect proportional balance for your body.  

Play Up or Down

One of the things I enjoy most is demonstrating to audiences how quickly a slight change to a garment or outfit can significantly improve their appearance. This is most easily done by manipulating hemlines.

Bustlines

Regardless if your girls are overly big or teeny tiny, horizontal illusion can come to your rescue.  If you would like to minimize the size of your bust ensure the length of your sleeves are well above, or well below the fullest part of your bustline. The photos of beautiful Christina Hendricks demonstrates this very well.  When she wears sleeves that are too close to the fullest part of her bustline she adds extra visual width to that part of her body making her bust appear larger.  If that’s you desire – great!  If not, the further above or below your bustline your sleeve ends, the small your bust will appear. 

 
Of course if like Keira Knightley you were missing from the line-up when God was giving out boobs then ending your sleeves at the fullest part of your bustline is the PERFECT thing to do – along with a push-up bra and a little blush in your cleavage to to give the illusion of more depth.  

Line Hierarchy

The design line/feature that is the most dominant is the one that will be seen first and will be the most powerful; only after the first feature/line has been noticed will other design features be seen.  In the case of the white dress that Kiera is wearing in the top line of photos below, while the dress does have a horizontal design features (lines) either side of her upper chest but the vertical seam running from her shoulders to the hemline attracts attention first and being so strong it negates the horizontal line.   In the following three photos each have a horizontal design feature that adds width and/or fullness to Kiera’s bustline. 
 
Large Waistline/ Big Tummy:
Where you are widest is never the best place to end a garment if it means creating a strong horizontal line.  This beautiful plus size model looks much longer and leaner when the top is longer (out).  Tucking it in emphasizes her small waist but at the expense of dropping her visual height and increasing her width.  When the sleeves end at the same location (waist) the effect is magnified.  If her top were a darker color the horizontal effect would be minimized due to the lower colour contrast level.

A Striped Affair

If anything gets attention, it’s stripes. Wide, contrasting stripes are clear victors when it comes to adding width and shortening apparent weight.  Multiple thin stripes in a garment that is longer than it is wide have the power to elongate and slim as the eye wants to climb them rather than move from side to side. 


AFFAIRS OF COLOR

Contrast

Contrast also plays an important part in gaining the look you want.  The lower the colour contrast between the stripes the more diminished the effect.  Below both dresses have wide stripes but the pink and orange dress is more slimming even though it is the shorter of the two. In other words, the extra length of the brighter dress did not counteract the effect of the wide, bright (high contrast) stripes.   

WEIGHT AND HEIGHT ILLUSIONS

Color Blocking

The more your body’s length is divided by horizontal divisions of color the shorter and wider you will appear to be and vice versa.

The woman with red hem border skirt has seven horizontal color divisions.  Each one visually shortening and broadening her body:

  1. Black tipped shoes
  2. Tanned legs
  3. Red border on skirt
  4. Skirt pattern
  5. Top hemline against skirt color
  6. White line crossing chest (top)
  7. Sleeve hemline  

Keep in mind also that these women are models with figures most of us dream of, on us the effect is magnified.

SHOE STRAPS

Most women LOVE shoes and I’m no exception however, I’m over my ideal weight, have short legs and am over 50.  So my legs need all the help they can get to look as long as possible and that’s why I’m careful about choosing the color of the shoe, the vamp and location of the straps.

Must Know Basics

  • The more your foot is covered by the shoe/boot, the shorter your leg will look – short = fat.  The vamp is the mouth of the shoe and the more it exposes your foot the longer and leaner your leg will appear.
  • The more horizontal lines that cross your foot the short your leg will appear.  Ankle straps unless thin are best for long legged women with slender legs.  Thin ankle straps are less harmful than those that are wide and flesh colored straps are better again.

Best options:

  • shoes with low vamps (last shoe 2nd row)
  • add matching hosiery to camouflage the strap
  • wear low vamp shoes in a color that matches your skin
  • heels – the highest you can manage.

APPARENT HEIGHT

Horizontal design lines and features can be used to increase or decrease apparent height.
The higher on your body the line or feature is, the taller you will appear and the wider the area it has been applied to will appear to be. 

BALANCING ACTS

By being aware of the power of design lines/features to broaden and balance your the body you can create the illusion of a well balanced figure within any price point. Here are a few examples:

To Balance a Full Hipline: Short wide sleeves, boat/wide necklines, bilateral focal points, stripes above the waist.

 
To Balance a Full Bustline: Full A line skirts, drops waists and focal points below the waist.  
To Balance a Rectangular Figure: Horizontal dark waistbands or belts (not tight), high horizontal focal points, Fit and flare dresses, stripes above or below waist (not both), flared shorts or wide to palazzo pants, peplums.
 
vertical fashion trend

THE VERTICLE ADVANTAGE: how to dress slimmer

By | Body Basics, Figure Flattery, Line and Design | 4 Comments

Imagine walking into a room or onstage and your audience sees you as strong professional woman, maybe one who’s even taller and more slender than you really are. How is this done? Through vertical design.

What is vertical design? It is clothing design elements which draws the eye up and down. The more vertical elements you use, the greater the elongating, slimming effect. For each element used, you can appear almost 4.5 pounds (2kg) thinner! This is the key for how to dress slimmer.

Vertical design is achieved through garments via:

  • shape:  straight and pencil skirts, straight and tapered pants, straight and tapered jackets/tops
  • silhouette: semi- to very fitted (boxy and soft somewhat)
  • structure: darts, panels, pleats, vertical folds, iron creases, seams
  • embellishments: vertical lace paneling, pin tucks, ruffles
  • fabricvertical patterns and prints; fluid fabrics which follow curves.
  • closures: zippers, buttons, lace-up
  • accessories: oblong scarves, pendants, drop and hoop earrings, open vamp shoes, high heels and/or pointy toe shoes, nude shoes, hosiery that blends into hemline and shoes
  • focal points: statement necklaces, medium to large or colorful earrings, applique design, embellished neckline/collar, scarf
  • length: the longer the garment, the more vertical power
  • grooming: long, short, straight hair; hair which stands up on top

Pictured are several outfits using vertical elements. Can you guess what they are (answers are at the end of the feature)?

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Pants vs Skirts

Pants elongate the legs from waist to hem, which is usually at the ankle (J). Skirts vary more, going from waist to around the knee, leaving the legs exposed (K). The shorter the pants or the wider the skirt, the less elongating and slimming effect. Why? Because where the legs are exposed is usually an area of colour contrast that horizontally divides the length of the body (L). If hosiery and/or shoes/boots are worn in a similar contrast level (depth and colour) to the hemline colour, the vertical influence is maintained.

 

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Run a Line

The most effective vertical line is one that runs down the center of your torso or limb (a seam, contrast stitching, zipper, row of buttons). However, the line’s position and width can negatively impact the elongating effect. This is definitely worth considering in light of how to dress slimmer.

Dress O’s wide vertical central panel, which is lighter than the sides, adds width to the torso. The wide central vertical seam in dress P divides the torso in two equal halves; however, the purple side is shinier, which makes it appear slightly wide than its darker matte counterpart. With sweater Q, the wider panel makes the torso appear wide regardless of the seam (vertical line). Sweater R is slimming due to the vertical seam being on the center of the torso.

A crease down the center of a pants is slimming. Pairing such with pointy toe high heel shoes looks even better.

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Color in the Lines

Color coordinating your outfits can achieve an elongated look, either with an inner or outer line.

For example, a solid color single breasted jacket left open and paired with pants of the same or similar color creates an uninterrupted appearance from shoulder to pants hemline. Worn with a bright/light top and you create an outer vertical line (S). The darker colour is slimming because it recedes; a lighter/brighter colour advances, drawing the eye to the centre.

For variety, wear pants and a top of the same colour along with a solid colour single breasted jacket or cardigan in a different colour. This creates an inner vertical line (T). A light/bright jacket or cardigan should be avoided by those who are large above the waist because it will cause the upper body to appear wider.

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Focal Feature

Even the best-laid lines of style and trends can be undone if you add a focal point which minimizes the vertical effect. For example, wear a low-placed focal point (colourful shoes, border on skirt) and you draw the eye downward, which in turn ruins the illusion of slimness and height. However, all you have to do is wear something eye-catching up high as a counterbalance (an accessory, statement jewelry, make-up or hairstyle) to move the eye upward. Ta-da!

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Beware the Stretchy Stripe

While it’s well-known that vertical stripes elongate your appearance, some fabrics undo all the good of those stripes. Stretchy, clingy fabrics with vertical stripes can stretch out of shape where you are widest and end up accentuating what you want to camouflage. Stick with non-stretchy fabrics and a semi-fitted silhouette for stripe success.
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Toe the Line

Wow! Who knew design lines exerted so much influence over how people perceive your physical appearance? Did you know it also affects them psychologically? It’s true. Tall is associated with strong (think trees, skyscrapers, and pro basketball players). Someone with “upright” morals is viewed as having strong beliefs. So it’s natural to view someone who walks tall or has an elongated appearance to be some kind of authority.

You can use vertical design to as part of your plan for how to dress slimmer. If you want to appear more professional, more authoritative (and slimmer and taller), be sure to incorporate vertical elements. After all, pinstripes for menswear hasn’t lost its pro touch!

Answers

A: 1. pintucks in shirt, 2. skinny pants, 3. high focal point with button on collar
B: 1. one colour outfit, 2. raglan neckline drawing attention upwards, 3. embellished collar, 4. pointy toe shoes.
C: 1. outer vertical colour flow, 2 .strong focal point blouse
D: 1. semi fitted tubular dress, 2. vertical pattern, 3. pointy toe shoes
E: 1. solid coloured dark dress 2. eyes up focal point – white shirt, 3. pointy toe shoes.
F: 1. solid coloured dress
G: 1. knee high boots, 2. striped coat, 3. focal point on shoulders and at neck, 4. high heels, 5. pointy toe shoes.
H: 1. gored skirt, 2. high waistband on skirt, 3. high focal point – leopard blouse
I: 1. vertical pattern in skirt, 2. pointed toe shoes

simple fashion style tips

SIMPLE STYLE TIPS TO LOOK GREAT EVERYDAY

By | Colour, Coordination, Figure Flattery, How To..., Wardrobe Savvy | 2 Comments

Are there tricks to looking slimmer, taller, better?

Yes! In fact, using the following simple style tips you can achieve the look you want. All use design lines, colors, and fabric characteristics to enhance and/or minimize your appearance.

GET IN LINE

VERTICAL design elements slim and lengthen any area of the body they are worn on. The more vertical lines there are, the slimmer and taller you will appear. Vertical elements aren’t limited to vertical stripes. They include zippers, pants, monochromatic outfits and garments, open jackets, pleats, and center front buttons, which elongate your overall appearance.

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HORIZONTAL design features add width to the area on which they’re worn. Working the opposite of vertical lines, they make you appear shorter and wider. Examples range from horizontal stripes to yokes, boxy skirts, belts, wide leg pants, and wide or contrasting waistbands. These appear to “cut” the appearance of the body into sections. A good rule-of-thumb to remember is that you will appear as wide as your widest hemline.

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DIAGONAL design features run at an angle across the body, but follow vertical/horizontal illusions. If the angle is more vertical, the area appears taller and thinner. If the angle is more horizontal, the area appears shorter and wider.
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CURVED/ROUND design elements add (surprise!) curves. While this sounds ideal if you’re going for a feminine look, know they also add width and weight, which is not ideal if you have ample sources of both. Floral, paisley, and swirly patterns, along with round necklines, curved hemlines, and contoured belts achieve the look.
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TAKE A COLOR ADVANTAGE

Color is an easy device to use to maximize or minimize your size and manipulate your height (i.e. appear shorter or taller).  Below are some simple style tips related to color.

Look at the following photos: in Photo A, the hips appear wider than in Photo C. Why is that? Light, bright colors “advance,” making the area they are worn over appear larger. Light colors worn on the upper half your body draw the eye upward, thus they also make you appear taller (Photo C). Dark colors “recede,” and do the exact opposite (medium depth colors have no movement effect). Darker colors also appear “heavier” than lighter colors and help you appear more balanced when worn on your lower half. Photos D & E show the slimming effect of the use of darker colors and low color contrast coordination (i.e. one continuous column of color). You must be naturally tall and slender to pull off the looks in Photos A and B.

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There are some colors which suit almost everyone because they have certain characteristics:

  • They contain a little of the opposite temperature in the mix
  • Are medium-light to medium-dark
  • Are neither very bright (clear) nor very dull (muted)

 

These universal colors appear along with each new season’s crop of trend colors and are widely available. Here are just a few:

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IMPLEMENT YOUR BEST SILHOUETTE

Besides using lines and colours to enhance your appearance, you must also consider a garment’s silhouette. The wrong silhouette for your figure can make even the cutest garment look bad. The right silhouette, however, can make you look great.

There are 4 silhouettes:

  • Very fitted: best for slender, youthful women with firm bodies because tight, clingy fabrics highlight every lump and bump.
  • Semi fitted: flattering on all women
  • Boxy & stiff: falls straight and stiffly and disguises the body’s shape. Best for straight-figured women under 45 years of age. A boxy jacket is best when it sits above the low hipline and hides a midriff roll or tummy. A boxy jacket can appear matronly on women 45+ years old if the jacket is longer or in an out-of-style colour.
  • Boxy & soft: made of a flowing soft fabric that’s flattering for all ages and weights, particularly on mature, full-figured women.

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ACCENTUATE THE POSITIVE

What turns plain old clothes into a winning outfit? A focal point! A focal point is anything which attracts attention: smoky eyes, hair highlights, a piece of jewelry, a print, shoes, a handbag. It’s intended to draw the eye to it.

If you’re not certain your attire has a focal point or if your intended focal point is appropriate, try this experiment: get dressed and stand in front of a full-length mirror. Close your eyes and then open them. What’s the first thing you notice? That is your major focal point. Now ask yourself if you want people looking there. Yes? Then you’re probably doing something right. No? It’s time to find another focal point.
If you’re big in the hips or posterior, you’ll want your focal point to be above the waist. If you’re large busted and wish to minimize your appearance, you’ll want your focal point below the waist. This can be done by counterbalancing a body feature by adding a competing focal point in the right place. See in the photo below that the hemline stripes of the blue dress are balanced by the red cardigan, while the striped top and yellow cardigan attract attention away from the bright pants.

Be on your guard against fussy looks by using less than three focal points. A great subject to study for how to achieve the 3-focal point or less look is the Duchess of Cambridge.

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FIND FIGURE FLATTERING FABRICS

Fabrics come in three basic surfaces which alter the appearance of the garment and manipulate the size of the wearer. They are:

Matte surfaces: absorb light rather than reflect it (wool, most cottons, linen). Tend to make the wearer appear slimmer.

Fabrics with sheen: reflect light, thus appears to “advance” slightly, but will not add significant bulk to your size unless the garment is clingy or tight.

Shiny/sparkly surfaces; highly reflect light, thus appear to “advanced” greatly and enlarges the area it covers. Soft, shiny fabrics can also highlight every bump and lump.

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(Purple dress by IGIG, Leggings by Asos, Jacket by Free People, & Jacket by Bloomingdales)

Besides its surface qualities, fabric weight and texture can be used to your advantage. For example, did you know you can “lose” a few pounds by wearing the right fabrics? Thin, lightweight, smooth fabrics cling to the body and have little bulk and texture, which visually slims your silhouette.

Firm, smooth fabrics are figure flattering when they echo the silhouette of your body (i.e. a tailored suit or leggings) but won’t necessarily minimize your figure.

Sheer fabrics are great for camouflaging challenge areas, such as a full upper arm, tummy, or full behind.

If you want to “bulk up” certain areas of your body, wear thicker, heavyweight fabrics, especially those with a bulky texture (corduroy, crinkled, quilted, ruffled, or fur).

4 SIMPLE TECHNIQUES

Every “body” is unique; therefore, what looks good on a celebrity or an acquaintance won’t necessarily flatter you. So before you try to copy a look you like, keep these 4 rules in mind for style success:

  1. Slimline tops and bottoms work well together for a long, lean look.
  2. A full skirt/pant is best worn with a slim top.
  3. A full top is best worn with a slim bottom.
  4. A full top and bottom usually doesn’t work well because they create a wide, shapeless look.

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