Love them or hate them double breasted jackets are raising their heads again as we once again borrow from men’swear to fulfill our fashion fancies.
Adding a jacket to any outfit instantly increases its formality however a double breasted jacket lifts the bar still higher. With its strong structured shape and military origin, an instant air of command and confident is immediately evident.
Whether for the office or to dress up a pair of denim cutoffs, a double-breasted jacket will lend your look a certain panache that can’t be beaten.
It’s true that a double-breasted jacket can be a little tricky for women petite women, those with a large bust and those who are curvy. These sartorial challenges should not be avoided, but rather embraced. Love the skin you’re in and let your curves guide you, there are always ways to make a style work for your frame and your body type.
Here are some tips to keep in mind when opting to wear a double-breasted jacket:
- Skim Don’t Swamp.
Lighter fabrics and trim a fit will skim your curves nicely and won’t overpower a petite frame. Bulkier fabrics and over-sized styles necessitates broad shoulders and are more suited to taller frames. They also add unnecessary visual weight and can be aging.
The key here is to look like your jacket is “borrowed from the boys.” There is a fine line between trendy oversized blazers, and looking like you fished it out blindly from your boyfriend’s closet.
Shape Trumps Straight.
Jackets with a semi to very fitted shape, are much more flattering and elongating. Boxy jackets on all but the tall and slender can leave the wearer shapeless and chunky around the middle. If you are unsatisfied with the silhouette of off-the-rack jackets, consider taking it to a tailor and getting it taken in at the waist to emphasize and show off your figure more.
Break the Rules
Men have always be taught that double breasted must always be worn closed but as women like everything else we love to break free of masculine constraints. The straighter the fit of your DB jacket the better you are to wear it open to regain an elongating line and break the overpowering horizontal effect. All but the most fitted and/or flared DB jackets are best left open – weather and common sense permitting.
- Think Low Hip to Thigh.
For all women except those with balanced boyish figure short, straight DB jackets will be difficult to pull off and will easily highlight any vertical or horizontal disproportions. To counteract the effect: wear it open, opt for fit ‘n’ flare varieties or those that are nipped in at the waist and accompanied by a full skirt or pants.
- Perfect Fit.
When it comes to tailored pieces such as this jacket, fit is everything. Lapels should lie flat against the chest and there should be no ripples of fabric across the back or shoulders and every button should be able to be buttoned without strain. Sleeve hems should not fall below the base of your thumb.
Jackets that close low on the body will rarely sit smoothly over a large bust. Made to measure double-breasted jackets will be the exception.
- Be Clever with Closures.
The greater number of buttons in the front and the closer the buttons are set, the more slimming the jacket will be. Buttons set wide apart make the upper torso appear broader.
Eight or more buttons lead the eye up and down the jacket creating the illusion of height, rather than width.
If you are large busted, avoid buttons that splay out into an inverted triangle shape, as this will increase the apparent size of your bust. However, these are wonderful if you are smaller above your waist than below or would like to appear a little taller.
Almost all buttons are focal points which pull attention towards them. This calls for wise placement to ensure all the attention is focused towards/onto your smallest area.