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Monthly Archives: May 2015

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WHY SHE WEARS THE PANTS

By | Fashion History | One Comment

From Cleopatra’s garb to Marie Antoinette’s extravagant taste in fashion, all the way down to the garb of Medieval peasants, the clothes we wear have always carried meaning within societies.

No garment a woman wears is more worthy of discussion than pants; they epitomize and mirror how women have advanced in society.

For the depths of time, women have been seen as the lesser of the human species. Lesser in strength, rank and intelligence. Men were the hunters and protectors while women were the breeders, gatherers and food preparers. As time moved on women were also used as a symbol of one’s wealth and status. In the 1800s women’s bodies were covered with multiple layers and contorted with corsets. Likewise in the East, women wore many layers and had their feet bound. These entrapments made activity extremely difficult and I expect diminished the enjoyment of life. It stands to reason that the time would come for a revolution.

Familiarity Breeds Contempt

Elizabeth Smith Miller was the first American woman to wear trousers in public in 1851. She was gardening one day and was simply fed up with her long skirt getting dirty. She wore an early version of trousers, and was a brave soul for doing this because it was extremely uncommon to go out in public wearing pants as a woman during this time because trousers belonged to men, not women. Miller wore these pants when she visited her cousin Elizabeth Cady Stanton and both of them wore trousers to the Seneca Falls Convention for women’s rights. This is was an extremely bold move and further extolled the sentiment that women believed themselves the equals of men.

Religious persecution swiftly followed as the wearing of pants was denounced by preachers who preached it was against Gods commandments. Deuteronomy 22:5 from the Old Testament of the Bible states, “the woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man, neither shall a man put on a woman’s garment: for all that do so are abomination unto the Lord thy God.” Those women brave enough to venture forth in pants were heckled and by all and young boys were encouraged to throw pebbles at them.

Enter Amelia

During the 1890s Amelia Bloomer was a prominent figure in the suffrage movement of the 1800’s. She fought for a less restrictive form of dress so women could excerise and generally lead a healthier life. Bloomer proposed a style of dress where women wear looser clothing and shorter skirts, with long shorts worn underneath. These shorts were there after called, “Bloomers,”.

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World War I

Not until World War I were women able to freely and openly wear pants as part of everyday attire. With the majority of males called away to serve their counties, women were needed to make up the shortfall in the labor-force by performing roles previously assigned to men. This meant working in factories, on the land and in occupations such as mechanics. This was a crucial point in fashion and women’s history, the necessity to wear pants and take on male roles also led to the popularity of casual wear.

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A Touch of Coco

During the roaring 20’s, designer Coco Chanel inadvertently popularized the trousers when she wore a pair of sailor pant’s during a summer trip. Fashion savvy women everywhere soon followed suit.

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Blue Jeans and Teen Rebels

Levi’s were originally invented for work men in the late 1800’s. However during the 1950’s blue jeans were increasingly donned by Hollywood celebrities, which led to their popularity among teenagers. Elvis Presley and James Dean are two celebrities credited for the prominence of blue jeans during that era. Both Presley and Dean wore jeans, which were typically worn by the working class, as a statement of youth rebellion against the establishment.

 

Elvis and Dean

Genderless Fashion and the Mod Invasion

The 1960s was all about liberation. Mod fashion was taking over the world, and of-the-moment UK brand Courreges, introduced its own line of blue jeans which heralded the start of the designer jean movement.

Movie stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Katharine Hepburn all embraced the sultry style of their chic pants-wearing predecessors Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich. Women confidently wore pants to demonstrate their freedom and independence, and at the same time highlighting the emergence of a genderless fashion counterculture. That said pants were considered not appropriate for many occasions and could as this 1968 news feature explains get you kicked out of a restaurant.   

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70s, 80s, and 90s

No longer a novelty, by the 70s pants had earned a permanent place in women’s wear. From the denim flare trend of the 70s, the designer jean fad of the 80s and the ripped denim and power pantsuit trends of the 90s, women’s love of pants were set in stone and always evolving in style.

That said up until about the late 1990s it was forbidden or at least frowned upon to wear pants for most business workplaces. 

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The Present-Day Pant

So pants are here to stay; no longer just worn for comfort through a long work day, they are part of our everyday wardrobe and it’s not uncommon for most women to own more pairs of pants than skirts and dresses combined. While pants are still worn for comfort, they are also considered necessary in women’s wear from casual to dressy.

We’ve certainly come a long way, considering that pants are now even considered conservative in a world of shrinking skirts.

Today designers and brands are constantly altering silhouettes to meet the modern woman’s needs and lifestyle. Embellished denim, trousers for red carpet events, printed pantsuits—the style possibilities are infinite.

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HOW TO FIND YOUR PERFECT PANTS

By | Figure Flattery, Wearing Classics | 6 Comments

Do you have a favorite pair of pants that you feel you can’t live without. A pair you know you’ll be devastated to lose when eventually they wear out? 

What makes them so special? Is it because they fit like a glove, or make your behind look like you’re J. Lo, or maybe they allow you to move freely without the fear of hearing a tear? There could be an endless laundry list of reasons as to why you love your pants, but in the end those were also the factors that influenced your purchase decision.

The reason why so many women wear their favorite pants until their practically fall apart, isn’t because of laziness, or financial frugality but because of effort it took to find a pair that looks and fits so well.  

Pants are without doubt the second most difficult garment to shop for.  What’s the first? Swimwear – but that’s a feature for another day.

It probably took you at least an hour trying on all kinds of pant styles trying to find that elusive pair that met all the standards you set for yourself.  Or did you luck-out, and don’t really know what about these pants you love so much, are so right for you? 

Knowledge is power, and when you’re armed with the knowledge of what style elements suit you best, you’re search for that perfect pair of pants is made so much easier.  

Style

The best pants are without doubt classic, tailored styles; from flat front pants to pleated trousers, a straight or tapered leg, classic tailored styles are your closet staples and everyday workhorses. In a solid, neutral color they will stay current for years and can easily transition from a windy winter day to a steamy summer night. From formal occasions to work, and onto dressy casual activities. 

Your body type, personal style and lifestyle should also play their roles in your purchasing decision.

If you have a short body and long legs you will not necessarily look good in the same style as someone who has a long body and short legs. Likewise if you have the challenge of a full tummy, flat bottom or wide thighs your style selection needs to be one that minimizes the trouble area and directs attention elsewhere.

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Fit

Fit and style go hand-in-hand.

The most flattering trousers for women should be well-fitting at the hips and either smoothly contour over the buttocks, or fall vertically to the floor from the apex of the derriere in the case of straight or wide legged pants. Pockets should lay flat and close – they should not gape. 

When it comes to fit, make sure the waist is neither too loose or too tight. It should circle your waist without any fabric gaping out from your body, or being so tight you feel like you’re being squeezed. If you can’t easily slip two fingers sideways between the waistband and your body, try the next size up – you can always take them in at the waist.  A tight waist can cause the dreaded “muffin top” which is unsightly and will make you appear larger. 

If you’re heavy in the torso aim for pants with a slightly higher waist as these will slim everything down while also visually elongating your legs. I also suggest torso slimming camis to eliminate rolls and bra bulges.

When you are in the fitting room test how you look and feel while moving around in the pants – bend, sit, squat and take a little walk. Denim and leather can be relied on to stretch some while cotton and man made fabrics will not.

Try to shop with someone you can trust to be completely honest with you, or keep things real with yourself when deciding on a new pair of pants.

If you have a generous derriere, this might also cause fabric to bunch a bit in the back.  Try going up a size and don’t forget the crotch area; we’ve all heard horror stories of camel toe, moose hoofs, etc. Look at where the pants are pulling as the lines usually point to the source of the problem: a smiling crotch is cause by a rise that is too short to accommodate for your bottom and horizontal pulls at the thighs indicate there is not enough width in the leg.

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Comfort

In my book comfort reigns supreme, and is the result of wearing the right size and having any necessary alterations made. Too many women focus on the number on the tag. Style and fit are far more important, especially when you remind yourself that there is no consistent sizing anywhere, except within an individual brand. So aim for a flattering style and comfortable fit, rather than a size.  Then when you’ve found the perfect pants, if you don’t like the number on the label simply cut it off!  That way you’ll be able to focus on how the pants make you feel, rather than the fact that you had to go up or down from a certain size. 

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Fabric

The list of fabrics and blends for pants could go on and on for days. If you want pants that will stretch yet hold their shape, look for less than 5% of lycra or spandex in the fabric. Sturdy, medium to thick stretch fabrics give the best appearance if your leg is not as firm as it used to be.  Flimsy or light weight stretch fabrics will only highlight every lump and bump.

Wool holds its shape, is comfortable to wear and has a quality appearance, making it perfect for a professional wardrobe. Leave leggings, linen pants and jeans for weekend wear since they tend to be on the more laid-back side of bottoms.

Pants that are lined can be relied on to give a superior appearance as they allow the outer fabric to flow past the skin, increases the comfort level and the longevity of the pants as they reduce strain on the seams.

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Rise

The rise of you pants is important to how they will ultimately look and feel. Low rise pants require a firm, flat stomach to pull off, while high waists are flattering on fuller figures, and can work wonders at concealing tummy problems. A mid-waist length sits just under your navel and tends to be universally flattering.

While in the fitting room do the squat, bend, kick dance to help you decide if your rise amply covers your behind.

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Width

Your best leg widths depends on your height, weight, and shape. Shorter women can rock wide-leg pants as long as they flare out more toward the knee or lower. If they flare out any higher they can consume a petite frame and substantially reduce your apparent height.

While a straight fit can seem a bit boyish on a less curvier frame by working some heels and a cute belt into the look you’ll soon create femininity and shape.

A ‘skinny’ fit can look great on countless body types, as long as they fit well, the fabric is sturdy and they are comfortable. Remember, bunching at the crotch or digging into your hips is always a bad sign. Adding boots either under or over the pants will add variety to the look.  Boots in the same depth or color as the pants will elongate your legs while in a different color will add interest.

Cropped pants and trousers tend to look best on tall women and generally speaking the closer the hem is to the leg the shorter the pants need to be to look good and vica-versa. How short you can go will depend on your leg length and the style of shoe you choose.

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Length

Bunching or frayed hems and pants touching the ground all indicators that your pants need taking up.

Heels can solve the problem if you can find the right height. For a length that will work with both medium height heels and flats stand bare footed and have your pants hemmed at the point where they touch the ground.

Thanks to some Parisian inspiration, rolling up your pants is very chic right now; it’s an effortless and free way to control the length. Usually a relaxed fits look best when rolled up once or twice, but lately celebs like Sarah Jessica Parker have taken to one long fold on skinny jeans. This really depends on your personal style, and how much leg you want to show.

Hemming

Creativity

Color, pattern and texture are all up to personal preference. Solid colored pants in neutral tones will be the most versatile. Medium dark to dark colors are the most slimming.

Vertical stripes elongate the legs while prints look best when they are neither too large nor too bright. Printed pants have lately become a staple in any fashionista’s wardrobe! They add some fun and edge to every look.

For women worried about having thin legs, a textured pair of pants can visually help add a little weight. Satin sheen is also becoming a popular option for pants but can add extra visual weight so be sure to add heels and attract attention high on your body with your accessories.

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DOUBLE TROUBLE: how to wear a double-breasted jacket

By | How To..., Trend Tutorial | 2 Comments

Love them or hate them double breasted jackets are raising their heads again as we once again borrow from men’swear to fulfill our fashion fancies.

Adding a jacket to any outfit instantly increases its formality however a double breasted jacket lifts the bar still higher. With its strong structured shape and military origin, an instant air of command and confident is immediately evident.

Whether for the office or to dress up a pair of denim cutoffs, a double-breasted jacket will lend your look a certain panache that can’t be beaten.

It’s true that a double-breasted jacket can be a little tricky for women petite women, those with a large bust and those who are curvy. These sartorial challenges should not be avoided, but rather embraced. Love the skin you’re in and let your curves guide you, there are always ways to make a style work for your frame and your body type.

Here are some tips to keep in mind when opting to wear a double-breasted jacket:

  • Skim Don’t Swamp.

Lighter fabrics and trim a fit will skim your curves nicely and won’t overpower a petite frame. Bulkier fabrics and over-sized styles necessitates broad shoulders and are more suited to taller frames. They also add unnecessary visual weight and can be aging. 

The key here is to look like your jacket is “borrowed from the boys.” There is a fine line between trendy oversized blazers, and looking like you fished it out blindly from your boyfriend’s closet. 

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  • Shape Trumps Straight.

Jackets with a semi to very fitted shape, are much more flattering and elongating. Boxy jackets on all but the tall and slender can leave the wearer shapeless and chunky around the middle. If you are unsatisfied with the silhouette of off-the-rack jackets, consider taking it to a tailor and getting it taken in at the waist to emphasize and show off your figure more.

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  • Break the Rules

Men have always be taught that double breasted must always be worn closed but as women like everything else we love to break free of masculine constraints. The straighter the fit of your DB jacket the better you are to wear it open to regain an elongating line and break the overpowering horizontal effect.  All but the most fitted and/or flared DB jackets are best left open – weather and common sense permitting.

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  • Think Low Hip to Thigh.

For all women except those with balanced boyish figure short, straight DB jackets will be difficult to pull off and will easily highlight any vertical or horizontal disproportions. To counteract the effect: wear it open, opt for fit ‘n’ flare varieties or those that are nipped in at the waist and accompanied by a full skirt or pants.  

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  • Perfect Fit.

When it comes to tailored pieces such as this jacket, fit is everything. Lapels should lie flat against the chest and there should be no ripples of fabric across the back or shoulders and every button should be able to be buttoned without strain. Sleeve hems should not fall below the base of your thumb.

Jackets that close low on the body will rarely sit smoothly over a large bust. Made to measure double-breasted jackets will be the exception. 

  • Be Clever with Closures.

The greater number of buttons in the front and the closer the buttons are set, the more slimming the jacket will be. Buttons set wide apart make the upper torso appear broader.

Eight or more buttons lead the eye up and down the jacket creating the illusion of height, rather than width.

If you are large busted, avoid buttons that splay out into an inverted triangle shape, as this will increase the apparent size of your bust. However, these are wonderful if you are smaller above your waist than below or would like to appear a little taller.

Almost all buttons are focal points which pull attention towards them. This calls for wise placement to ensure all the attention is focused towards/onto your smallest area.

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SEVEN TRENDS TO TRY THIS WINTER

By | Trends | 5 Comments

It may be cold outside and the urge to snuggle into your fleecies may be all too appealing, but Winter is a fabulous time to get your sartorial savvy in gear. With so many ways to look on-trend this winter it’s easier than ever to be comfortable, cozy and hot on trend.

From the start, resist the urge to settle into a winter uniform and try to mix things up a bit. Insert some of these trends into your closet and see how much they can do enhance your personal style. There’s nothing like a fabulous ensemble to make a dreary cold day feel just that much better. So step out of your winter style comfort zone, and step into these visually arresting textures and fashion forward silhouettes.

Oversized Sweaters

Oversized knits and sweaters are a quick and easy way to upgrade your winter style. These generous sweaters aren’t just cozy and comfy, they make you look like you know a thing or two about fashion editor style. The important thing to remember is to balance their oversized silhouette with a tailored or sleek outfit pairing; you never want to look like you’re drowning in your own sweater.

If you feel the bulk is a little too much for your scale or weight try a smaller size as this will often be the key to a perfect look for you. For maximum chicness, wear your oversized sweater with sexy ankle booties and finish with bold, red lip.

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Pastels

Winter Trends have been turned on their head with this year with pastel colors. Instantly mood-boosting with colors ranging from pale cotton candy pink, icy pastel blue, or cool mint green, these are just some of the hues to choose from when shopping for this years Winter Trend pieces.

Wearing a trench coat or sweater in a pastel color feels much more novel than sticking to your tried and true winter colors of black, camel, and navy. A quick jolt of color always makes things interesting and can punch up a pastel for those who look best in stronger colors.

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Statement Fur Coat

This year instead of donning your same old topper, search out a vibrantly colored or patterned fur coat. A show-stopping coat like one of these is sure to instantly increase the fashion points of any look you decide to wear it over.

If you intend wearing a bulky, short version, slender pants will be a must to prevent Yeti impersonations. Longer versions allow for more vertical elongation and less bulk means less visual weight.

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Wide Leg Pants

Full, flowing and comfortable, we say hat’s off to the sleek and easy-to-wear trend of wide-leg pants. Paired with anything from tailored tops to patterned knits there are literally thousands of ways to style these pants.

If you’re feeling a little height deprived or a touch heavy the secret is ‘length’ and proportion control. The combination of a long length, high heels, and pointy toes will create leg-lengthening miracles and when combined with a fitted or fluid top the results can be breathtaking. Leave the short widths to your taller, slimmer sisters.

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Military Inspired Style

More than the super trendy military green color, the military inspired style trend is also about utilitarian detailing and classy brass buttons. Military green is an easy to wear and easy to pair color that is a no-brainer to add into your style rotation. If you’re looking for a more pronounced military style statement, opt for outerwear with brass buttons or pants with cargo detailing. This is a more unexpected way to pull off the military trend.

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Poncho Scarf

Popularized by the Burberry runway and spotted on style royalty like Sarah Jessica Parker, Cara Delevingne, and Olivia Palermo, the poncho scarf started out as a micro trend but quickly and vastly gained traction among fashion lovers everywhere. An over-sized blanket-like scarf worn as a cardigan or extra layering piece has proven to be the most wearable trend and the ultimate must-have for the winter season. Wear it as a scarf or wear it like a poncho, or cinch it with a belt, the choice is yours. Any way you choose to style it, this piece is endlessly versatile and will never exhaust its chicness. You just have to get creative and inspired with it.

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Shearling

There’s no trend that seems more tailor-made for winter than shearling. Whether it is a full shearling coat or a statement shearling collar, the wooly texture adds warmth and tactile depth to any look. Shearling effortlessly combines fashion and function. If you’re feeling less adventurous, you can also opt for shearling accessories like boots or shearling-accented handbags.

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Which of our Winter Trends will you be adopting?

 

 

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SEVEN TRENDS TO TRY THIS SUMMER

By | Trends | 2 Comments

The welcome increase to warmer temps initiates the desire to take a fresh look into our closet, to pull out our old favorite pieces and scourer the shops for which trends to adopt. This year, no different to past, the stores are filling fast with fresh looks created from old favourites. Here are our top seven most wearable trends.

Gingham

Not relegated to picnics and homely outfits anymore, Diane Von Furstenberg’s runway has ensured gingham’s reign for the coming season. This sweet vintage inspired print trend is our top pick to insert a little bit of trendiness into your look. You can opt for its more traditional black and white look, or you can pick gingham in a brighter hue for more pizzazz. The best part about this trend is that it’s classic enough to be versatile. So whether you’re wearing a gingham blouse with daisy dukes or with a pencil skirt, this print translates into chic street style.

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Shirtdresses

Another classic that’s making its comeback, shirtdresses are here to stay for the season. Cinch with a belt for more shape or keep it loose and flowing, the shirtdress can say polished or it can say laidback. It really all depends on the styling. The silhouette of this dress is simple enough, yet the tailored details are borderline menswear-inspired and make it ideal and adaptable for different body types.

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Polo Shirts

Reveal your peppy side in cool and comfy polo shirts. To embrace this season’s polo trend is to pair them with items that give it a more modern, feminine feel – which means you may want to ditch the khakis and sneakers. Instead, get creative and combine it with unexpected pieces that showcase your curves. 

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White Sneakers

The athletic trend continues its strong foothold in the fashion industry, and this summer’s footwear of choice certainly reflects the dominance of sporty style. White sneakers are versatile, comfortable, and chic. What’s not to love? Instead of your flip-flops or ballet flats, choose white sneakers for a more modern approach when it comes to styling your summer staples, like your maxi dress, white shorts, or denim skirt.

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Culottes

A cross between Bermuda shorts and palazzo pants, culottes are an easy pick to wear during the hot summer months. This is mostly due to its wide leg and breezy shape, which makes it cool and comfortable for you to wear. Most fashionistas get intimidated when it comes to styling culottes, but the key is to balance its volume. Wear it with sleeker tops like halter tops or sleek tanks, and always cinch and emphasize your waist and curves to make a flattering silhouette.

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 Circle Bags

The geometric appeal and contemporary aesthetic of circle bags are precisely what makes it such a huge trend. Minimalist in its trend origins, these round mini cross body bags instantly up the chicness and Euro street style feel of your look. The whimsical shape of these bags spells fashion editor style right away. When you add gold hardware, zipper details, studs, or bright colors into the mix, these circle bags quickly transform into a wardrobe must-have.

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 Gladiator Sandals

Say ta-ta to the thicker straps of the trendy gladiator sandals from the 00’s. This season, gladiator sandals have been reincarnated with thinner and more delicate straps and with more sleek shapes. Whether it’s a lace-up gladiator heel or boho-inspired flat sandals, gladiator sandals are the quintessential summer sandals. Greek goddess inspired and a perfect companion to your summer tan and cocktail in hand, gladiator sandals can go from city to beach, cabana to the club.

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With so many trends to chose from, what will be your go to trend this summer?